Simple design can lead to extraordinary results.
Ive been enamored of Greene & Greene furniture since my early days of woodworking, well before I possessed the skills to produce such a piece. Since that time, this style has become a regular part of my woodworking vocabulary, and I enjoy making reproductions and interpretations of classic Greene & Greene designs. This blanket chest is a reimagining of a piece originally designed by Charles and Henry Greene for Thorsen House, Berkeley, Calif.
My wood of choice for this project was khaya, sometimes referred to as African mahogany. The original Thorsen House box was made from red oak so dont hesitate to use a domestic species if exotic woods dont suit your taste or budget.
The bottom of the blanket chest is made from plywood, and you can save a bunch of cash by using a domestic-veneered species instead of seeking out mahogany-faced stock. A 5 cm x 5cm x 30cm turning blank can be used to trim the ebony. This should give you enough ebony to make several projects.
The case panels are glued up from several narrower boards. You should arrange the boards so that they complement each other in color and grain pattern. After cutting to length and width, the wide finger joints are milled on each end with a router and a template.
Simple Template
Slide it. Moving the center piece of the template and reassembling it produces mating profiles on each end of the template.
Technically, you will need two templates. One for the male and one for female. This is a great way to have them all in one go. Cut a piece of or sheet-good stock to approximately 41 cm x 61 cm, making sure the corners are perfectly square. Rip the piece into two 10 cm-wide strips and one 7-wide strip. With the 7 strip in the center, glue the three pieces back together after sliding the center strip out exactly 1. You now have a 2-in-1 template that matches the 15-inch width of your case panels.
The protruding fingers of the case joints have roundovers. You can save yourself time later by adding them to the template. I use a no-frills method for making the roundovers; use a drill bit as a layout guide, then use a sanding block to create the actual profile.
Take care. Saw close to the pattern lines, then use a bearing-guided bit in the router to create joints that match the template.
Trace the shape of the finger joints on each chest side, then cut away the excess material. Stay at least off the line. The template is clamped to the workpiece. A router equipped with a bearing-guided bit for pattern making creates finger joints at both ends of each board.
The inside corners need to be squared, then you can dry-fit the case and evaluate each joint individually. In all likelihood, the finger joints will be just a bit too tight. To allow fingers to nestle into each other with ease, use a chisel or light paring strokes.
The bottom panel of your chest rests in a groove running around the interior of the case. This groove was cut with a router equipped with an edge guide, and an undersized plywood bit. (Most plywood is never truly thick, so I use a plywood bit specifically designed for this purpose thats undersized.)
Below. The single fingers on the base can be cut at the table saw.
The -deep groove on the side panels runs from one end to the other. The case’s outside would show a through-groove on the back and front panels. These grooves must stop at the end of each panel. You can square up the router bit by using a chisel.
The base of the chest is made up of a deck, finger-jointed base, and 3 cm x 1-cleats.
The deck is made from a large mitered frame. To ensure repeatability, the 45 miters were cut on the miter saw. To reinforce the miters, I installed a small loose tenon at each joint. Biscuits, dowels or pocket screws would work, too. After the glue has dried, I use a No. 80 cabinet scraper to smooth the frame and level the joints.
The base parts are milled from 5/4 stock and have finger joints at each end. Theres no need for a template here. Simply measure and mark out the joinery, then cut to the lines. Its a good idea to test-fit the base parts as you go to ensure they fit together perfectly.
Greene & Greene-style Blanket Chest Cut List
No.ItemDimensions (inches)MaterialComments
tw l
2 Case front/back x 15 2 x 41 Khaya
2 Case ends x 15 2 x 22 Khaya
1 Case bottom 4×21 4×40 Plywood
2 Deck Front/Back 4 x 2 2×42 Khaya
2 Deck ends 4 x 2 2 x 23 Khaya
2 Base front/back 1 x 2 8 x 43 Khaya
2 Base ends 1 x 2 8 x 24 Khaya Optional drawer front
2 Handles 8 x 1 8 x 14 Khaya
1 Lid panel 4 x 24 x 39 Khaya TBE*
2 Breadboard ends 16 x 2 2 x 24 Khaya
1 Plug material 2x2x12 Ebony
Optional Drawer Parts
2 Drawer sides x 2 4 x 12 Khaya
1 Drawer back 4 x 2 4 x 10 Khaya
1 Drawer bottom 4 x 9 8 x 11 Poplar
1 Frame cross brace 4 x 2 8 x 23 Khaya
2 Frame sides 4 x 2 8 x 12 Khaya
2 Drawer runners 2x2x11 Khaya
2 Frame returns 4 x 2 8 x 6Khaya
*TBE = Tongue Both Ends
Exploded View
Ive Got A Secret (Drawer).
Below the end. The drawer should be able to slide and the drawer front should fit snugly under the base front.
As designed, the base structure has a lot of dead space. You can use the optional hidden drawer to recover this space in a very creative way. The base side becomes the drawer front and a frame structure supports the drawer box. You can make the drawer as large or small as you want. Just make sure you leave room for the cleats used to attach the base to the deck.
Build the drawer and frame, double-checking the measurements against your actual workpieces. The drawer isn’t as precise as we would like, so I give it more clearance. This drawer is not like regular drawers. It’s at the bottom and will be difficult to adjust if it ever binds (as you can see from the photo).
With sliding-dovetail joints the drawer parts attach to their base sides (the drawer front), and the bottom slides into the grooves in each of the four pieces. The frame pieces are cut to size and fit in dado joints at the base front and back.
The drawer runners are glued into grooves cut in the sides of the drawer compartment. The drawer receives a slightly wider and deeper groove to allow about extra play as it slides in and out. The key is to cut the grooves the same distance from the top of each piece (1). This will ensure that the drawer is flush with the top and prevent binding.
The base is assembled using glue and screws. Once dry, test-fit the drawer. If the drawer binds at all, put on your investigative cap and determine the source, then use a chisel or scraper to relieve the offending material.
Behind The Plugs
Two steps. Two steps are required to create mortises for ebony plugs. First, punch a hole in the square and then remove the waste with the drill.
The blanket chest is held together primarily with screws. Ebony plugs not only hide the screw heads, they also give the piece that classic Greene & Greene styling. The mortises for the ebony plugs need to be cut prior to assembly. As shown in the drawing, lay out the mortises.
I like to draw each square mortise using a plastic square template. While this may seem like overkill, it actually serves as a sanity check that helps me avoid misplaced plugs. With a square hole punch, the mortises can be cut into the base and case.
This, not that. Mark the edges to be rounded over with chalk to help prevent shaping the wrong edges.
The chest has roundovers on all the long edges of the case and roundovers on the breadboard ends and base. A router can do the bulk of the work but some areas need to be hit with a rasp and sandpaper to complete the profile.
The Parts Become One
Simple assembly. Screws located under the ebony plugs hold the case together.
Once the blanket chest is dry-assembled, measure the plywood bottom panel and cut it to size. The panel can then be glued into the groove on the case front and the rest of the case pieces will come together easily. It is not necessary to use glue at the wide finger joints because the unit is secured with screws. Clamps hold the assembly together as you drive screws. Make sure the case is square. To make any corrections, use a diagonal clamp.
Attaching the deck and base to the assembled case is easiest to do with the case upside down. The case is attached to a set of cleats that are then flushed to its bottom edge. The cleats provide extra support, as well as a safe zone for driving screws. The deck is then centered on the case, and screwed into position through countersunk holes.
Second time around. Another set of cleats help hold the base firmly to the deck and case.
It is a good idea before attaching the base to your deck to drill, countersink, screw, and glue the cleats. This work is difficult to do later. With the cleats attached, the base is then centered on the deck and attached with #8 x 1 screws.
It’s All On Top
On the end. The breadboard end groove fits over the top panel’s tongue. Screws in oversized holes hold the two pieces together.
Breadboard ends on the blanket chest lid add depth and interest to the panel. The breadboards are attached to the panel using a long tongue and groove joint. The groove is cut into the breadboards using a drop cut at the router table; make sure to stop prior to the blowing out the ends. The lid panel is fitted with the tongue. Its end should be notch to fit the groove. Look for a snug fit.
Through several mortises made for the ebony plugs and bars, the ends are screwed into a lid panel. Although the long center bar may not be functional, it is stylish. Square punch is used to make the x mortises. The long mortises are cut at the router table; be careful to drop and lift the workpiece using layout lines as a guide. The router bit leaves a rounded corner so use a chisel to chop the ends square.
Undercover. Ebony plugs will cover the screw heads after the breadboard ends are attached.
Next, drill a bit into the breadboards. To allow wood movement when the lid panel expands or contracts, the holes are large.
Round over the edges of the breadboards and the lid panel before assembly. Use a little glue to attach the breadboard ends to a panel. Next, insert 8 cm-long screws in the holes to secure the ends to the top.
Sculpted Handle
Back up. As the cove is routed into the end, scrap wood behind the handle blank helps you to better control your work.
Although the handles look easy at first, the arch-and cove profile presents some challenges. Cut the mortises to accommodate the ebony plugs before shaping the handles.
To shape the arched top of the handle, I use a curved template to help trace the shape of the arch, and to later serve as a router fence. Start with a piece of -thick sheet stock cut to approximately 25 cm x 35 cm (sized for clamping on a router table).
Measure 25 cm from the center. The arch’s peak should be marked up at the centerline. Draw the curve from the peak to the 25 cm marks using a drawing bow. You can draw the same layout from 3 cm away from the edge without a drawing bow. To hold the bending strip in place, use nails. Cut the curve with a jigsaw or band saw and smooth the arc using a spindle sander, rasps or a flexible sanding strip.
Double duty. Double duty. The curved template can be used to support the arched handle and route the cove profile.
Once you have the curve in place, transfer it to the top of each handle. Align the curve’s center with the handle stock. Draw lines down at each end. Cut along your lines. To remove the stock and create the arch, I use a stationary belt-sander. But spokeshaves or rasps are also options.
To make the cove around the handle’s perimeter, I use either a core-box or round-nose router bit. I start with the ends, using a backer board for additional support.
The long sides are routed using the curved template as a fence. The workpiece must be pushed left to right, not right to left as you would normally. This is because the workpiece lies behind the bit. This is a tricky process so be careful and do multiple passes.
Hold up. To ensure the handle is correctly positioned, a block of MDF is placed on top.
To ensure that there are no sharp corners except where the handle attaches, round the handle and sand it well.
The handles are glued and screwed to the case sides 8 up from the deck. While drilling and driving the 1-long screws, I support the handle with scrap. To ensure that the screws won’t damage the interior of your case, double-check the length.
A Passel Of Plugs
Spin it. The drill spins an ebony into each of the sandpaper grains.
The blanks of ebony are then cut into square sticks. First, the blanks are cut into large strips. Then they are laid flat and then cut into sticks. A sacrificial pushblock is used to cut thin strips safely.
To pillow the ebony plugs, I use a method I learned from William Ng. This involves a drill, several sandpaper grades and a soft foam pad. Use a chisel to chamfer each stick’s corners. This will allow the stick to fit in a standard drill-chuck.
Start with #80 grit. Pulse the drill until the end grain rests on the sandpaper. You can back up the sandpaper with any material that is flexible. Move from one grit to the next until you reach #1,000 grit to bring the surface to a polished shine.
With the pillow created on the end of the stick, a simple jig is used to cut the plug off the end. My jig, made from scrap, holds the stick tight for sawing and guides the saw blade to make a square cut. It also ensures that each plug is the right length.
All the same. This jig is used to cut each plug to an identical length.
The remaining ebony sticks can be further trimmed at the table saw for use as bars, ripping them down to about in one dimension and leaving the other dimension at over . I use a -radius circular bit to create the pillowed effect. The bit is lowered so it just touches the vertical portion on the cutter. You can create the pillowed effect with the help of another tool (seen above).
Hands back. This simple, made-from-scrap tool holds the ebony bars so that the profile can safely be routed.
Each side of the square plugs is tapered so that they fit into the mortises. This is done with a few strokes of a chisel. For the bars, I use sandpaper to create the taper. To install the plugs and bars, use glue and a plastic-headed hammer. The key is to use light but firm taps that leave the plugs proud of the surface. Be careful not to push the plug in too far because it is very difficult to remove without doing damage.
Dye & Lacquer
A pattern emerges. The pattern emerges from the dark plugs and bars that hide the screws.
The beauty and elegance of a Greene & Greene project is hard to beat. My dye mix is a 1:2 mixture of General Finishes Medium brown to Orange. The dye is water-based so I first raise the grain with water, then sand. Spray the dye on the surface and then wipe off any liquid residue with a pre-moistened, terry cloth sponge.
For a topcoat I used three coats of CAB acrylic lacquer with light sanding between each coat. After the lacquer had cured for a week, I used a #2,000-grit abrasive to rub the surface. Although the surface is not affected by the high grit, it creates a smooth and shiny finish.
There are still a few things to tie up before you call this project done. These include the corner blocks, hinges, drawer magnets, and hinges (to lift the chest off of the floor).
Rare-earth magnets are used to close the hidden drawer. They were used on the drawer’s inside, but not in the drawer box. The -diameter magnets are epoxied in shallow holes.
You can use traditional butt hinges to attach the lid to the case, but I prefer to use torsion hinges. They are quick and easy to install, require no mortising, and keep the lid open without additional safety devices.
Swing & hold. Torsion hinges serve to hold the lid open without any additional support.
The base is attached to its corners with four corner blocks made from scrap wood. The blocks sit under the deck. These keep the chest off the ground while allowing the drawer to operate properly. You might consider using longer blocks to raise the case if you have carpet.
The blanket chest is a great place to start if you are interested in learning more about Greene & Greene. Even if youre not a fan of Greene & Greene, you probably have an appreciation for the care and attention that goes into creating the eye-catching details.
Plan This SketchUp model is free to download online.
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